PAT LEE
Chef Jose Andres is tired, but dutifully answering writers’questions about his new restaurant, Fish, at the upscale luxury resort The Cove at Atlantis on Paradise Island in the Bahamas.
But it’s not surprising he’s a little fatigued given that within the last few days the avid diver and fisherman had been out on a boat doing what he loves to do, as well as hopping around Nassau to check in on some local conch shacks, then later preparing to host a dinner in his new restaurant to thank community partners for their support of the endeavour.
The developing and opening of Fish at The Cove at Atlantis, a sister restaurant to one he owns in his home state of Maryland, also came on the heels of his herculean effort to help feed the people of Puerto Rico after Hurricane Maria left the country devastated and struggling 2017 (he has been nominated for a Nobel Peace Prize for this work in the ravaged Caribbean country).
At this stage of his career – some 25 restaurants and counting – the Spanish chef could take it a bit easier, but he just shrugs at the suggestion.
“For me, it’s another challenge and a way to tell a story,” he said while sitting in Fish, empty except for staff decorating for that night’s festivities.
Plus, he added, it’s a way to offer steady employment to those who have worked hard to help him get as far as he has in such a competitive industry.
Environmental focus
Andres, born in Spain, said he was attracted to open a restaurant in The Cove – the Bahamian-influenced 600-room luxury resort within the resort of Atlantis – because of their efforts to limit the damage caused to reefs through its environmentally focused Blue Project Foundation.
The foundation has raised more than $5 million to protect and rehabilitate the reefs, the third largest in the world. A portion of proceeds from Fish restaurant will go towards the project.
“It’s great to see all the effort that they are doing to have a healthier reef, a healthier ocean. I’m very in line with that,” he said.
One focus is to encourage the harvest of the invasive lionfish by spear fishermen. To further entice their capture, Fish features lionfish and other local seafood specimens on its menu.
“I’ve been meeting local fishermen to help them to convince others to go out for more lionfish,” he said. “It’s a good payday for those who want to go out for it.”
Lionfish can be a bit tricky to deal with in the kitchen given its venomous spines (the reason it has no prey) but once those are removed the remaining meat is delicious.
During one dinner at the restaurant, Fish chefs offered up an entire lionfish deep fried with the removed meat served alongside of it.
It’s a fish that won’t win any beauty contests, but it is delicious.
Andres said after getting the go-ahead from his family to sign on at Atlantis — “Does it have a good beach, can we scuba dive, does it have golf? It had the three check-marks so it was hard to say no” — the project was full steam ahead.
Fish is in good company at the mega-resort, joining other all-star ventures Olive by Todd English, Cafe Martinique, Nobu with Nobu Matsuhisa, and Sip Sip by Julie Lightbourn.
When you’re not eating at one of the many eateries at Atlantis, both high end and casual, you can hang out poolside or at the beach.
The Cove has 20 luxury beach-side cabanas and a pool with gorgeous furniture that’s been glammed-up by artist Lulu DK.
Of course there’s a themepark side to Atlantis with a huge water park with slides and a river ride for those who are inclined.
Published December 2018 in the Toronto Sun
