ROBIN ROBINSON
Scottsdale is known for its excellent restaurant scene but on a recent press visit, our host suggests something a little different – dinner in the desert.
So, about 4 o’clock on a warm afternoon, me and about eight colleagues pile into two shiny black SUVs for a trek in the Sonoran Desert to dine on gourmet goodies under the stars.
After leaving the main road, we pass the McDowell Sonoran Conservancy – some 12,140 hectares of pristine, protected desert land and mountains that fall within Scottsdale’s borders. The largest urban land preserve in the United States, it has 320 km of well-maintained trails that can be explored on foot, bike or horseback.
But we turn onto a road less travelled and continue driving until the asphalt ends, the road narrows and the gravel gives way to dirt. Soon we arrive at a clearing, where we’re greeted by Matt Cooley and Olivia Laux, the recently married couple behind Cloth & Flame.
Along with a crew of two, Cooley and Laux are hauling coolers, and setting up tables, chairs, lights and barbecues for our desert dining experience.
Cloth & Flame specializes in creating culinary “experiences” in unconventional places. These can be community or corporate events, private dinners like this one, or weddings. The couple have a passion for the wilderness, and have hosted events in “wild landscapes everywhere from the Grand Canyon to an Alaska mountainside,” Cooley says.
Their work has a conservancy aspect, too. They lease the land where events are held, providing income to landowners who might otherwise sell to developers. And they donate 10% of dinner proceeds to groups that protect wild places and wildlife, he adds.
This dinner is taking place on part of the Quarter Circle U Ranch in the storied Superstition Mountains.
While the crew prepares hors d’ouvres, we sip margaritas as we amble among the scrub brush and take photos of teddy bear cholla, saguaro and other cacti, paolo verde and mesquite trees, and mountain peaks in the distance.
Cooley, who is a fount of knowledge, answers questions about desert geography, geology, flora and fauna. He also warns us to watch out for holes in the soft dirt as these may house small animals or snakes.
Fortunately, we don’t disturb – or even see – any snakes! While noshing on our starter – fig and brie crostini with sunflower sprouts – we watch the setting sun cast long shadows over the landscape and eventually sink behind a mountain and disappear.
As if on cue, millions of stars appear – spectacularly bright in the crystal clear midnight blue sky. Soon it’s time to gather ’round the table.
Our feast includes delicious meat and vegetarian dishes – melon and cabbage-sprout salad with rosemary-shallot vinaigrette; smoked salmon tartare with farm greens; roasted beet tartare; grilled filet mignon with roasted potato; green beans and charred pumpkin in red wine sauce; and a quinoa, roasted potato, green bean and pumpkin casserole. Each course is super delish and paired with a different wine.
Cooley joins our table after dessert – warm apple tart tartin – and spins some lively yarns about the Superstition Mountains, including the legend of the Lost Dutchman’s Gold Mine, which people still search for today.
Relaxed, happy and savouring the good food, good wine and good company, it’s the perfect end to our perfect dinner in the desert.
DESERT DETAILS
Private dinners with Cloth & Flame must be booked well in advance. Diners should wear sturdy, closed-in shoes and bring a sweater or light jacket as the temperature dips after sunset. Wondering about bathroom facilities? Events are held near places with access to washrooms, or Cloth & Flame sets up porta-potties on site. Cooley and Laux are also building some wilderness camping resorts. They aim to have one open in October. For information, see clothandflame.com.
For more on the McDowell Sonoran Conservancy, see mcdowellsonoran.org.
MORE DESERT EXPOSURE
Dining in the desert is not the only way to see the spectacular landscapes of the Sonoran. Visitors who don’t mind heights can get a thrilling bird’s-eye view from a hot air balloon.
Our group took a sunrise ride with Hot Air Expeditions, who picked us up from our hotel and drove us out to their launch site.
Before climbing into the hand-crafted wicker basket, we were given a short safety talk and were able to see dozens of colourful balloons being filled first with cold air, then hot in preparation for takeoff.
After lifting off, and soaring to about 1,525 metres, we enjoyed 360-degree views for about an hour.
The first thing that struck me was how quiet it was far above the ground. While we were moving about 10 km/h, it hardly felt as if we were moving at all.
From our lofty perch, we could spy mountain ranges dotted with saguaro cacti, small animals such as jackrabbits and coyotes – even a few burros.
After a soft landing back on earth, flutes of Champagne were handed out, a gourmet breakfast was served and we all received “flight” certificates.
Dozens of Arizona companies offer these rides but Hot Air Expeditions is one of the oldest and has an excellent safety record. Sunset flights are also available. See hotairexpeditions.com.
NIGHT TIME AT THE OASIS
There is always something interesting to see at the 57-hectare Desert Botanical Garden (DBG) in Phoenix.
The living museum showcases some 50,000-plus plants that not only survive, but thrive in the world’s hottest places. The collection is organized into themed loop trails and galleries focusing on desert living, discovery, wildflowers and more.
The trails are home to about 14,000 cacti, 186 species of agave, and 400 species that are rare or endangered. About one-third of the plants are native to the area.
Full disclosure here: I’m not good with plants. The only houseplant I have never killed is a cactus so I loved seeing the different varieties – hedgehog, beehive, prickly pear, jumping cholla, bunny ears and more – of this hardy species.
Another DBG highlight is an abundance of Arizona’s signature saguaros, which are found only in the Sonoran Desert. This mighty cactus can grow to heights of 18 metres, weigh up to 2,000 kilos and live more than 250 years!
There is always something special going on at DBG. On previous visits, the garden had an exhibit of fantastical glass sculptures by Dale Chihuly. Most recently it was Electric Desert, a dream-like light and sound installation by Klip Collective. Some displays in this nighttime show appear to be moving, like the creeping devils that look like writhing snakes, or succulents that appear to have been transformed into colourful coral undulating beneath the ocean waves.
See dbg.org.
CHIC SLEEPS
After a day in the desert, it’s nice to come home to one of Scottsdale’s welcoming resorts. We stayed at two – The Phoenician and Mountain Shadows.
- Pampering is a specialty of The Phoenician, one of Arizona’s grandest resorts with 643 rooms (including 62 suites), 11 restaurants, nine swimming pools, 11 tennis courts and a championship golf course, all set in 101 hectares.
The recently revamped Phoenician Spa occupies a three-storey building with 24 treatment rooms, a rooftop pool with views of Camelback Mountain and eight private cabanas, hot pools, and a relaxation lounge with fireplace.
There is a full menu of massages, facials and body treatments. I tried the 80-minute Hydrafacial, which combines deep cleaning, exfoliation, hydration – using antioxidants, peptides and hyaluronic acid – lymphatic drainage and LED light therapy. It is almost like a mini-renovation for your face. But it really did leave my skin glowing and the effect lasted several weeks.
My favourite thing was the Mother-of-Pearl Pool with its iridescent tiles and adult hot tub. Children have their own areas: A Kid Zone with suspension bridge and tree house, a splash pad with spray guns, tipping buckets and water spouts, and a twisting waterslide. See thephoenician.com.
- The original Mountain Shadows opened in 1959. Nestled between two mountains – Camelback and Mummy – the hotel took its name from the long afternoon shadows the iconic mountains cast over the property. It attracted an international crowd that included Hollywood stars of the day such as John Wayne and Elizabeth Taylor.
Today’s Mountain Shadows is a new build near the site of the original.
It has 183 rooms with a retro vibe, 42 condos and suites, an excellent restaurant with open kitchen, two pools, a hi-tech gym, and an 18-hole golf course. Some of our group spent a relaxing afternoon lounging in one of the private cabanas, sipping bubbly and nibbling fresh fruit between dips in the pool.
See mountainshadows. com.
NEED TO KNOW
Experience Scottsdale is the authority on visiting the city. You’ll find a wealth of knowledge and links for things to see and do, places to stay and eat, and more at experiencescottsdale.com.
Published April 12, 2019 in the Toronto Sun
https://torontosun.com/travel/usa/soak-up-dreamy-desert-in-scottsdale
